Happy Hare, the Promo Sapiens
Part 5
(Click on at the bottom of this page for HH Parts 1, 2, 3 and 4)
Contrary to what you may have heard,
heart disease is not the nation’s #1 killer. It is boredom. My
attempts to evade boredom often get me into trouble.
Boredom is the benevolent wave that cast me back upon perilous
shoals of radio and onto the tarmac of Sheremetyevo Airport in
Moscow, on the third leg of a world speed record attempt. The
airfield was a combination civilian and military installation. A
deafening jet whine permeated the field, coming from MIG 15’s
landing and taking off.
One evening in early 1969, I warily approached a monstrous plane the
likes of which I had never seen. My companions, Japanese and
Russians trudged toward it in a long line in which I was the only
American. Most of us did not speak a common language but we all
shared an unspoken apprehension about this trip. It is a cultural
trait that when alarmed or fearful, the Japanese in a group will
compensate by giggling in a high pitched tone. Russians grow sullen.
and growl. In this line, there was both giggling and growling. I am
different. In times of mortal danger, I face death silently and
fearlessly, but often lose bladder control.
My innards shriveled at the thought of twelve hours over the
towering Siberian mountains in this garbage heap. There were six
prop jet engines mounted on a deeply corroded fuselage that looked
like it had been to the bone yard, was turned down and was back here
again, because it had nowhere else to go. I was relieved to find
someone more miserable than I: an aged Russian man who sighed
wearily at the prospect of the long trek up into the plane. I
reached out my hand and supported him while he struggled, wheezing,
up the steep 20 foot stairway ...
Inside the cabin, I was confronted by several forbidding looking
Russian “stews” and, when I started to take my assigned seat up
front, was shoved by the meanest looking one toward the rear of the
plane. My Russian companion, a first class passenger, was not
allowed to enter his suite. When he faced her to protest, the same
bully, who had manhandled me physically grabbed his shoulders,
twisted him around and launched him toward the back. Aeroflot
apparently had not told these women that “stews” were supposed to
treat passengers like royalty, an obsolete class in Russia.
When we settled in the rear of the plane, I saw that the Japanese
had congregated at one side and the Russians the other. I sat with
the Japanese.
Before take-off, a Japanese man in a black uniform festooned with
brass buttons, appeared at the head of the cabin and spoke in a
stream of Russian. Whatever he said was met with grim silence by the
Russians. Then he spoke Japanese and when he finished, the Japanese
broke into the aforementioned high pitched giggle. Finally, the man
addressed me directly.. “Mr Mahtin, (Martin) did you understand what
I said?” I nodded "no", startled at being singled out.
“My name is Mr Ueda. I am steward of this airprane. We ask you to
sit in the rear on take-off because of weight distribution probrem.
This prane once the world’s greatest airprane. It was a Russian Bear
bomber, now converted to a passenger prane. After take-off you may
go to your seat in the front, but I don’t recommend it. because this
prane got engine vibration probrem. On behalf of Aerofrot and Japan
Air Lines, my employer, I wish you a good fright. (Flight).
The ensuing trip was as rough as I had feared. I could hear the
protesting metallic wails of the fuselage being rent by the Siberian
storm just a few feet outside. I could envision this massive plane
crashing into the wilds below, creating a crater as large as that
infamous meteorite that killed all the dinosaurs millions of years
ago. Fear played games with my imagination.
Serendipity put me next to a Japanese foreign correspondent for one
of Japan’s major newspapers. He introduced himself as Takeo and told
me not to try to remember his last name. During the night I asked
about Russia and Japan and he asked about Elvis and The Beatles and
American music and my job.
Animated talk between us compressed
the twelve hour flight. We were relieved to see breakfast arrive: a
hard boiled egg, a boiled potato and a vulgar looking kielbasa with
a big glob of horse radish on the side.
Moments later, the ancient plane collapsed intact on the runway. On
the way to the exit, Takeo gave me a subtle signal to look to my
side. There, huddled on the side in a dark niche sat the stew who
had bullied me and the old Russian. She was nursing a black eye..
Takeo had seen me help the man up the gangplank and only now said
“That man you helped,” He explained.” is the head of Aeroflot. He
complained to Mr Ueda about her bad manners and told Mr Ueda to fire
her. I think maybe Mr Ueda also gave her the black eye. The Aeroflot
head is in Japan to sign a contract with Japan Airlines which will
bring Japanese stewards and stewardesses onto the Aeroflot planes to
teach these Russian women how to behave toward passengers. .Mr. Ueda
is the first of many,”
Standing in line to leave, I peered through a round port hole
overlooking the outside. Just then, a large colorful sign was
pressed against it proclaiming “Welcome to Yokohama , Happy Hare.” A
stewardess opened the soundproof hatch, abruptly letting in the
blare of a band played martial music. When I stepped out onto the
platform, a crowd broke into a loud cheer. No one smiles like the
Japanese and this crowd was one big smile.
Takeo whispered in my ear. “I have to go, Hare. You are about to be
welcomed Japanese style. He actually said, “Sayonara.”
It was like a 1936 American movie. I heard shouts from photographers
in the crowd. “Mr Happy Hare. Look this way.. Smile” Another voice
in the crowd shouted for me to turn his way and smile. The flash
bulbs were firing off like out of control strobe lights..
Then, everyone settled down when an older man dressed in a formal
suit walked up and addressed me through a young translator, He said,
“I welcome you Mr. Happy Hare on behalf of the Yokohama Chamber of
Commerce. Mr. Frank Curran , mayor of our sister city San Diego, has
asked us to greet you on your historic trip. We are honored.” He
turned aside and barked a staccato command to one of his aides who
bowed and motioned me to get into a limousine that had been driven
out onto the tarmac.
Mayor Curran’s letter had requested their mayor to show me “any
courtesy” which, in Japanese protocol, is like a royal command. When
I stood at the car door, a young man in the crowd shouted at the top
of his lungs, “Gumbariyo!” Several hundred echoed back. GUMBARIYO!”
“Gumbariyo!,”my translator told me, was the Samurai battle cry of
the 18th century Shogun, Tokugawa, to inspire his troops in battle.
Roughly translated, it means, “Kick out the jams!”